Liberia: Robertsport & Lake Piso

When we crossed from Salone to Liberia the Salone border guard told that there was a big cultural gap between the two countries – with Salonians being friendly & law-abiding.

We instantly notice a marked contrast, mainly the strong US influence, with border officials wearing khaki uniforms with badges, cowboy style pockets and epaulettes and lots of “G’day Sir & Ma’am”.

We arrived in a country associated with a long and vicious civil war, but which has been peaceful and making a strong recovery since 2005.

We stayed in Robertsport, a small low-key coastal village set by the Atlantic and a huge inland sea salt lake with waves, Lake Piso which manatees live in, sadly we didn’t spot any beyond the advertising posters.

There is absolutely no logical reason why American colonialism should be any more strange than European colonialism, but there was definitely something incongruous about the distinct American culture as soon as we crossed the border.

People spoke English with a strong American twang & cheesy 70s American music (think George Benson, Billy Ocean & The Commodores) at ear splitting volume was played everywhere we went. We were subjected to a lot of low-quality saccharine county music too and couldn’t help thinking talented young African musicians might be more interesting to listen to.

We soon got into the American lifestyle. On a Saturday morning we drove to the drive thorough bank & supermarket where the car doors are opened for you and the groceries carried to the car after being bagged up in about 20 plastic bags, despite us bringing our own bags.

We were told several times “welcome to the land of liberty “, though not sure how that squares with homosexuality being a crime punishable by a 1 year prison sentence.

We spent a relaxing morning at Nana’s Lodge in Robertsport, glad to be back by the Atlantic again.

Nana’s Lodge were preparing for a Cane Sugar liquor festival, including interesting cocktails made with hibiscus & garlic & ginger. It was interesting to talk to the organiser briefly as she explained they were keen to promote local products. Cane Sugar has been seen as an inferior product compared with imported luxury brands and one of the aims of the festival was to highlight the beauty of locally grown products.

We noticed a lot of US imports like this Maple Syrup, proudly claiming it contains 2% real maple.

We were able to dip in the sea, but swimming was out of the question at this surfers beach, the waves knocked you off your feet and we were warned about the dangerous rip currents that have claimed many lives.

Instead we admired the skilful surfers doing loop backs along the curlers. When we couldn’t help whooping & clapping at their surf skills, the young guys came over, politely introduced themselves “G’day Ma’am” and told us which surfing competitions they’d recently won and other skills and talents they had.

As we drove away along the long unpaved and rutted route towards the capital Monrovia, we noticed even more daring modes of travelling, with guys sat on top of cars casually holding onto spare tyres or even sat on the bonnet with hands either side bouncing along in 38c heat.

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