Morocco: Cascades d’Ouzoud

We reluctantly left Asilah early in the morning for the long drive south towards the capital, Rabat and then inland to the Ouzoud waterfalls in the foothills of the Atlas Mountains.

The route was stunning with the mountain range getting closer and closer. We eventually got used to articulated lorries parking up in the slim hard shoulder, highways teams carrying out repairs and individuals and small groups walking perilously close along the fast motorway.

We finally arrived at the remote Auberge Zebra campsite, were shown our rustic and charming room and after a swift walk around the small village, the sun set and our host cooked us tasty beef with pear and chicken with olive tajines.

In the morning we enjoyed a generous breakfast with a view of the mountains and set off for the walk to the magnificent waterfall. This little kitty asleep on the tarpaulin roof of one of the stalls seemed underwhelmed though.

As well as Arabic and French, many signs also included the ancient Berber language with its distinctive script.

We sat in a beautiful outdoor cafe overlooking the waterfall and drank Berber whisky (mint tea) and freshly squeezed orange juice.

It was tough to see so many stalls and restaurants empty during low season and we wondered how tough it must be to make a living.

The next day we took a walk in the opposite direction to the source of the waterfall, through a vast, ramshackle and entirely vacant campsite along the riverbank, with more empty restaurant and bars.